Eric's Tools Of The Trade

On this section of the site, I will be sharing and explaining my techniques. Designing a train layout, for me at least, is a combination of professional tools, improvised tools, learned techniques and a lot of self taught techniques. I don't claim to be any kind of an expert. In fact, the one thing that this page will show is how my techniques change and improve over time. The majority of my techniques are self-taught. My father gave me a few tips here and there, but other than that it's just a matter of trial and error. Anyway, I hope this page comes in useful to someone.

My Tool Box

As my modeling abilities have continued to grow and improve, I've come to rely upon a fine set of useful tools. Some are power tools, some conventional and some are homemade. Here's my ever-growing list, in no particular order...

1. The Dremel Tool - The Dremel Tool is one of those tools that you buy and then after about a month of use you ask yourself how the hell you ever lived without the thing. The Dremel Tool is the ultimate all around handy tool for any train enthusiast. Why? Because it pretty much can do anything. I use it constantly to make custom cuts of track using the cutting tool, to file away and sculp plaster forms and even to chop off the occasional stripped screw. What's even more amazing about a Dremel Tool is the price. I got a deluxe corded set with tons of accessories for $99 at Home Depot. They also make a cordless version that is actually cheaper. If you are into building train sets and you don't have a Dremel Tool, you seriously need to think about getting one.

2. Screwdrivers Unlimited - This is an obvious one, but a very important one. You can never have too many screwdrivers and I've built up a solid collection of every shape and size there is. Regular sized screw drivers are always useful, but I also have serveral miniature screwdriver sets, as the small ones are even more usefull for the small screws that are all over a train set. You can find the miniature sets in any hardware store and they usually come with a nice carrying case. For big screw jobs, I use my Milwaukee 18v cordless drill. For smaller screws and more cramped spaces, I found a Black & Decker palm sized power screwdriver that is just great for small jobs. For in-between jobs, I've got DeWalt cordless screwdriver that has an adjustable elbow on it.

3. Chisels - A good set of chisels comes in handy all the time. Most often, I will use a chisel to strip away old scenery when doing set renovations. However, there are endless uses for a good set of chisels. My first chisel was a Stanley FatMax 2" chisel, and I've since added a 5 piece set that has both small and large chisels.

4. Scrapers - Provide similar uses that the chisels do, but for much more delicate materials and needs. A rzaor scraper and a paint scaper make a perfect set.

5. Files - Another vital tool, the file comes in amazingly usefull at all times. A good set of files, going from miniature to large will suit you just fine. The small files are so useful in doing precision work on small objects. I bought a set of small hobby files and a slightly larger set of files at Lowe's and I use them all the time.

6. Hook and Pick set - I picked up a 4 piece hook and pick set at Lowe's and I'm so glad that I did. These little hooks and picks come in so handy in so many random siuations. I use them the poke holes for trees to sit in, to pull debris out from under tracks, to clean debris out from engine gears and trucks, to pull wires through holes, to mark positions where screws will go and tons of other odd applications around the set. The hook and pick set is probably one of the most handy tool kits that I have.

7. Hammers - Another obvious item. Everyone needs a hammer, and if you don't have one there's probably something wrong with you. A good old fashioned standard sized hammer is good to have around for random banging and pounding. I've also got a small tack hammer that comes in handy for smaller jobs.

8. Elmer's glue - I buy Elmer's in 1 gallon batches and then distribute it between my glue bottles and sprayers. I once bought a bottle of Woodland Scenics white glue to see if it was better than Elmer's. I think their white glue is basically Elmer's with a different label on it. Anyway, I liked to bottle they use better than the small Elmer's bottles, so I've been putting Elmer's in that nifty bottle ever since. Undiluted Elmer's glue is the default glue for all set applications. I use it for all types of scenery applications.

9. Sprayable glue - Sometimes using pure Elmer's glue is not practical, and having a sprayable form of the same glue is more desireable. This is particularly true when laying ground foliage, loose ballast and even when laying grass at times. When I first started using spray glue, I bought the sprayable glue from Woodland Scenics. However, their spray glue is a little expensive (for something as basic as glue), so I needed a more economical solution. I realized that the Woold Scenics spray glue was pretty much nothing but watered down Elmer's glue, so I now make my own spray glue. For the container, I use the Woodland Scenics bottle that the original spray glue came in. The spray heads from woodland scenics tends to clog rather easily, so the head on the bottle is now a Zep spray head that I got from Home Depot. To make a batch of spray glue, I create a mixture of (very) hot water and Elmer's glue. My current mix ratio is 3 to 1, or 3 parts hot water to 1 part Elmer's glue. I first fill the bottle 3/4 full with very hot water. Then, I fill the rest of the bottle with Elmer's glue. However, I don't fill the bottle compelely up. I usually leave about a 1/2 inch of empty space at the top of the bottle, as the mixture will need some space to mix well. Once the 2 ingredients are in the bottle, I quickly close it up and start to shake vigorously for several minutes. After several minutes of shaking, the hot water and glue should be well mixed. My method of making sure it's mixed well is to look at the bottom of the bottle. If it's mixed well, then when you shake the bottle you should be able to see the mixture swishing around on the bottom of the bottle. If its not mixed well, and the glue has settled to the bottom of the bottle, you won't see anything swishing around when you shake it. Even after the glue is made, I routinely give the bottle a good shake so that any settled glue on the bottom will get mixed in. The new mixture is ready to use immediately, and you do not need to wait for it to cool down. In fact, I personally think you get a better spray when the mixture is a little warm.

Techniques

Here are some ramblings about some of the modeling...

Ballast

In case you don't know, ballast is the roadbed for a train. It's the bed of coarse gravel that the track is laid upon and which surrounds the track ties. My method of ballsting the track on my layout has evolved a lot over time. For a long time, I wasted a lot of time and ballast material, laying it like I laid grass and other turf. I would tape down the track path, pour glue, spread ballast and the lay the track back down on top of it. I later added more ballast in between and to the side of the rails. This seemed to make sense to me, but after reading a bunch of modeling magazines and watching several layout videos, I've learned that this is not the best method. :(

My new modus operandi is to start off by laying a cork roadbed. The unerlying cork bed serves 2 functions. Firstly, it's a sound deadener so that your trains run quieter. Secondly, it give the track the realistic elevation from the ground that real railroads have. In other words, it makes the road look like it's been built up. After that, the track gets laid down and fastened to the cork bed and table. Lastly, I come through with ballasting material and pour it on generously so that it fills in the gaps between the ties, fills out both sides of the road and (most importantly) hides the cork bed underneath. Once I've got the ballast looking right, I come through with a sprayer filled with a glue/water mixture and give the ballast a light spritz, so that it can dry and be held in place. Sometimes the sprayer is impractical, so I'll use a dropper to apply the water/glue mixture to the ballast. After you've applied glue to the ballast, it's very important to come through with a damp paper towel or cloth and clean on the track so that you don't get dried glue on your track. Glue on the tracks means a bad electrical connection between the trains and the track, which mean trains that don't run well.

Asphault Roads

I tried out the ballast method metioned about for making roads and the results are awesome. What I did was combine Woodland Scenic's Fine Cinder Ballast with a 50/50 mixture of white glue. I just paved the black asphault onto the set and a few hours later it looked really nice. The mixture goes a long way too, so you get quite a bit of road out of a bag of cinder ballast. It also gives the road a realistic "paved" look. This realism is even more evident when you do spot patches to damaged roads.